Real Talk, Round Two

Okay, so I wrote about jewelry metals last summer and a LOT has changed since then. Gold prices are still wild, my layering chains are officially out in the world, and every gold piece in my shop is now 18K gold PVD over stainless steel.

I also keep getting the same question in my DMs: gold filled or stainless steel... which one is actually better?

So friend to friend, lemme break it down for you. What each one is, what I've learned (some of it the hard way 🙈), and how to pick what's right for you.

What Is Gold Filled Jewelry?

Gold filled jewelry has a thick layer of real gold bonded to a base metal, usually brass. And it's not just a fancy marketing term! In the US, it can only legally be called "gold filled" if the gold is at least 10K and makes up at least 1/20th (5%) of the total metal weight. That's WAY more gold than regular plating, which is why gold filled has been the go-to for affordable fine jewelry for so long.

I really do love gold filled. But it's priced with gold, and with gold hitting record highs, it's gotten expensive. Fast.

And honest confession time: I've bought "gold filled" findings from suppliers that turned out to NOT be gold filled. Mislabeling happens way more than you'd think, and as a small maker I had no real way to check. So if you're shopping for gold filled, look for a stamp like "1/20 14K GF" and buy from someone you trust.

What About Stainless Steel Jewelry?

Stainless steel is made with chromium, which creates an invisible protective layer on the surface. That's why it's so good at resisting rust and tarnish. You'll see a few different grades of it in jewelry, like 316L (often called surgical-grade), and I use a mix depending on the piece.

And it is TOUGH. My toddler got her hands on one of my chains and has put it through the wringer, and it still hasn't broken. Not a product test I planned, but here we are.

But Selena, is it really hypoallergenic? For most people, yes! Stainless steel does have a small amount of nickel in it, but it's locked into the metal, so very little reaches your skin. Also, fun fact: I have three stainless steel screws in my hip from a stress fracture back in 2013. If it's good enough for my bones, I trust it on my neck 😅 (If you have a severe nickel allergy though, check with your dermatologist first.)

The only catch? On its own, stainless steel is silver. Which brings me to my fave...

Gold PVD: The Best of Both Worlds

PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition (say that five times fast). Basically, gold gets vaporized in a vacuum chamber and bonded to the stainless steel at a molecular level, which makes it way harder and more scratch-resistant than regular gold plating. If you want the full nerdy breakdown, I wrote a whole post on what 18K gold PVD plating is.

So you get that warm 18K gold look on top, with tough stainless steel underneath. And if the finish ever does wear after years of hard use, there's no mystery brass under there turning your neck green. It's still stainless steel!

This is why every gold piece at Altru is 18K gold PVD now. It holds up to real life, I know exactly what I'm getting from my suppliers, and it keeps prices where you can actually build a stack instead of saving up for one chain. And more sales means MORE MONEY TO DONATE TO ALS RESEARCH ❤️

Gold Filled vs. Stainless Steel vs. Gold PVD: The Quick Version

Okay, here's the cheat sheet version 👇

So Which One Should You Choose?

Honestly? It depends on you!

• Want real gold content and okay with the price tag? Go gold filled (and look for that "1/20 14K GF" stamp).
• Love a silver tone and don't want to baby your jewelry? Stainless steel is your girl.
• Want the gold look, everyday durability, and room in the budget to layer? 18K gold PVD on stainless steel, all day.

Oh, and a quick PSA while we're here: there's no such thing as "waterproof" or "tarnish-free" jewelry. Those are buzzwords, ha. ALL metals tarnish in time. The difference is how fast, and whether it can be polished back to new.

And whatever you pick, show it a little love:

• Take it off before you shower, swim, or sweat a lot (maybe don't wear it for your next 5K, kay?)
• Perfume and lotion first, jewelry second
• Store pieces separately so your chains don't tangle
• Clean gold PVD with mild soap and a soft cloth, and skip polishing pastes or anything scratchy

The Bottom Line

There's no one "best" metal, just the one that fits your budget, your skin and your life. For me and for Altru, right now that's 18K gold PVD over stainless steel. And if gold prices ever calm down and I find suppliers I can actually trust, I'd love to bring gold filled back someday.

If you're building your first stack, start with the Layering Chains collection and add a charm or two 🤭 And no matter what you choose from Altru, you're supporting the mission to help end ALS.

Thanks for reading this far (seriously, you're the best)!

xoxo,

Your Pal Sal

P.S. Got questions? I'm always a DM or email away 💖